City on seven hills or aboriginal in Istanbul
Despite the fact that the official capital of Turkey since 1923 is Ankara, yet the song, heart and mystery of this country was and remains Istanbul. Istanbul is what the Turks call it. Like our native Kiev, Istanbul is built on seven hills. Isn’t that a hint that we should take a closer look at him? Of course, it is impossible to imagine Istanbul without Hagia Sophia and the Blue mosque, without the ancient” city in the city ” – the Bazaar Kapali Charshi, without the majestic Ottoman palaces and slender arches of the Bosphorus bridges. However, our goal is to open to you another Istanbul – alive and mysterious – such as it is not shown in tourist guides. Move like an aboriginal Is the first and most important advice if you want to feel free and mysterious traveler that arrived before this fabulous city incognito and wants to see the real life of the local people. By the way, incognito. Some Turkish sultans had a strange habit-disguised as a simple citizen, wander through the streets of the city to see life as it is and not as it was described by the court sub-clubs. The most convenient means of transportation modern Istanbul, of course, is a taxi. But agree, for this free traveler taxi – it’s a dude. Besides, taxi drivers – masters to deceive the naive foreign brother, and in order that you were not trite deceived, it is necessary to be not born beaten. The most extreme transport – “dolmush” (tour. – crowded) – this is a specific kind of taxi, something like our bus. The vehicle is not for the faint of heart. The cheaper the fare-the more extreme. The most pleasant and romantic transport, no doubt, are the ships and ferries – the local sea buses. They circulate along The Golden horn Bay (tour. – Halich) and the Bosphorus. The price is the same as for the bus or subway, plus a sea of pleasant sensations: wind in the face, seagulls overhead, the smell of salt sea water. Give it a try. Moreover, it is the best and fastest way to get from the Asian shore of the Bosphorus to the European and Vice versa. The shortest route is Tunel. This is one of the world’s oldest subway lines, built in 1875. Connects the square with the port Tunel, Karakoy and the Galata bridge. Convenient, unusual, something like our funicular, but underground. Finally, the most common means of transportation is the bus. The locals usually use travel card for payment of bus passes and tokens for travel on the tram or metro. But the foreigner in the buses are always friendly and allow you to pay directly with the driver. Attention, the entrance to the bus only through the front door! You come, you pay, you pass in salon. Even if you do not know exactly what kind of bus number you need, you just need to carefully read the sign with the list of names of stops on the route in order to understand whether it will take you to the desired area, or not. As an aboriginal aboriginal do Not be afraid to seek help from the local population, of course, if it is not a dark deserted alley, the only human beings in which – you and a very suspicious type with a bad smile on his lips. Then it is better to run and as quickly as possible… Even if your and their English leave much to be desired, and you do not speak Turkish, and even more so, do not be afraid to ask. Just take the map and, pointing your finger at the right place and clumsily pronouncing the local name with a terrible accent, madly gesticulating, beg for help. Take him by the hand, fail to need transport, give caring to the conductor to indicate the required stop. The main thing – to portray on his face full of despair and maximum goodwill. On itself tested, works. Eat like an aborigine I will Not be mistaken if I say that Istanbul is one of the gastronomic wonders of the world. And street food of this city and all is a separate story. Apparently, EU officials have never been to this city and have not tried its Goodies, if you want to ban street food in Turkey. So my advice – run away from Taormina tourists ostentatious restaurants with high-sounding titles like “the Best Ottoman cuisine” and prizeplay these where and what to eat the Turks themselves, and they are bad will not. The quality and taste of what is sold in small buffets, kiosks or just from a tray on the street, sometimes much better than what is prepared especially for tourists. Besides, street food is really cheap and affordable. Do not be afraid, try all the worst that threatens you – is to gain a few pounds extra weight.. Some outdoor Goodies Doner, better known to us as Sauri-mA, occurs at every step, is prepared from mutton, veal or chicken, cut in half to fit bun “cokanasiga”or twisted into a thin layer. A generous portion of vegetables and pickles is added to the meat, and all this refers to spices. Gozleme – thin, baked in your presence in a hot pan pellet that your choice wrapped a variety of toppings. Borek – pie. They come in a variety of types and fillings. Kokorec-wrapped in crust and chopped Protosenya with spices giblets. The meat is fried in boiling oil mussels in batter. Fried freshly caught fish is often sold on the Istanbul embankments directly from the boats, which are equipped with special braziers. We, accustomed to frozen sea fish, without a doubt, should try this fresh. The best offer is at eminönü square. Kestane-hot, roasted chestnuts, a favorite treat of Istanbul cold winter days. SIMIT-bagel with sesame seeds. This constant beginning of the morning each of the honorable stambultsy. Tea, SIMIT and morning newspaper. Sold directly on the street from small glass mobile kiosks. Lost addresses do not Even dream without certain skills from the first time to find the address you need. No way. Those who built, completed and rebuilt the old districts of Istanbul, were, apparently, very creative personalities, did not tolerate any order. The streets and streets of the old town are a continuous interweaving of labyrinths. Only big streets and avenues are quite straight and predictable. About the address… The name of the street in most cases can be found only on the first of her house, and then the house numbers may not be at all.
Istanbul Montmartre in Paris is Montmartre, in Moscow-Arbat, in Kiev – Andrew’s descent. And in Istanbul there is Beyolu – an area that has become a refuge for foreigners, Gentiles and Bohemians. His life revolves around Istiklal Boulevard, stretching from Taksim square to Tü-nel square. There goes funny, one of the world’s oldest tram, blind lights showcases modern shops, urbasa people at the weekend. There are many cozy and fashionable coffee houses, cinemas, book and music shops, art galleries and galleries. Name Beyolu arose not so long ago, already for the Republic. During the Byzantine Constantinople this area was called Galata and was a Latin Catholic colony. In pre-revolutionary times, in the late XIX – early XX centuries, one of its parts began to be called Peroy. Pro-European Turkish politicians saw Pere as an example to follow, because it was the center of the latest achievements of European civilization. There were foreign languages, embassies and consulates of foreign States, fashionable European cafes and restaurants, theater premieres with the participation of such stars as Sarah Bernhardt. Pencil Galatians historic Galata district was and still is like a thick pencil Galactica tower built by the Genoese in 1348. Known Istanbul legend, in 1б38 year with this tower jumped on chilopoda glider local follower of Icarus – Ha-Surfen Ahmet çelebi I… he flew over the Bosphorus, for which he was accused of witchcraft and sent to Algeria. This is one of the best review points in the city, from which you can see both the Bosphorus, the Golden horn and the place where they merge. Climbing the tower, you feel yourself inside the wind rose. The final Orient Express Hotel-legend Pera Palace, which is now in operation, was built in 1891 specifically for the passengers of the famous train “Orient Express”, which made its first flight in 1883. The legendary train ran on the route Paris-Istanbul. In Pera Palace stayed almost all the most famous personalities who have ever visited Istanbul: from Mata Hari, Agatha Christie to Joseph Brodsky, Churchill, Vertinsky, heads of state and royalty. Well-known is the mysterious story associated with Agatha Christie and this hotel — the story of the 11-day disappearance of the great writer during her visit to Istanbul. Until now, it is not known exactly where Christy was these days, but hired in the 70s, the medium informed that the solution to the mystery lies in the 411 room of the famous hotel, where the lady stayed more than once. The sorcery of the medium led to a secret hiding place, where they found an old rusty key. However, that key has something to do with the writer and what it reveals is still a mystery. Unfortunately, now the hotel is under restoration, which will be completed in 2008. The bridge that never sleeps from the square of Kadikoy, across the haliç, eminönü to the area is a famous Galata bridge. Probably none of the Istanbul bridges can boast of such popularity as this one. Sketches for the construction of the ancestor of the bridge commissioned by the Sultan in 1502-1503 drew himself Leonardo da Vinci! It is also called the bridge, which never sleeps – it is on duty around the clock fishermen. Throwing their fishing rods into the murky waters of the Bay, they slowly smoke a cigarette after a cigarette, hoping to catch the biggest fish. On the bridge the smell of seaweed, salt, cars, cigarette smoke, last night’s tales and a vain hope. And these hopes are connected not only with fish. There is a legend that somewhere here, near the Galatian bridge, in 1453, the Byzantine inhabitants of the city flooded tons of gold, so that it did not get the Ottoman invaders, who were about to take the city. Who knows, maybe someone from the fishermen’s once you’re lucky, and the hook rod fate will bring the man’s insane wealth. Under the bridge found shelter numerous fish restaurants. And above him, over the heads of fishermen, circling crowds of arrogant gulls. Birds wait for the moment to steal a fish from a Gawker fisherman and hope for the soft hearts of tourists, throw them from the bridge bread. In General, feeding birds is one of the local attractions. Almost every Istanbul square has its own population of pigeons, which are happily fed by aborigines and tourists, buying bags of seeds from grandmothers and children. Urban “settlement” Huge 14-million Istanbul has become so not in one day. Once in its place was the old city – Constantinople. Gradually around him began to appear in small towns. For ataman times these settlements became even more, and then, somehow so quietly and naturally, they became part of the city. However, each of them still retains its own individuality. Therefore, I advise you not to hesitate, and visit former settlements, as Ortakoy, Arnavutkoy, Bebek, Serie, Fener, Balat, Uskudar. It is worth to come there and just wander the narrow old streets. In addition, you can try almost the best street food and take a boat trip on the Bosphorus by boat, which departs every hour. Maiden tower in the Middle of the Bosphorus stands a lonely tower Keys Coles or Maiden’s tower. First built on this site in 408 BC, it has since been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. The history and legends of this place are told in different ways. I have personally heard about a dozen versions, the most romantic and the saddest of which says that the daughter of the local king was imprisoned by her father on this small island after he heard the prophecy that she would die from a snake bite. Father built for his daughter the white tower, in which she was henceforth to live. But the enemies of the king sent the Princess a basket of fruit, in which the snake was hidden, and the girl, despite all precautions, died a terrible death from snake venom. The story is very sad, but it does not prevent visitors to the tower to admire the unique panorama of the city, which opens from its top, and slowly enjoy coffee and tea at a local cafe. To get to the tower from the piers Uskudar or Besiktas just six lire on a special boat, which circulates between the shore and the island.
City of the dead over the city alive At the end of the Golden Horn is a historic district AUP, and above it – blairmore city cemetery. There is stored the fourth of the most important shrines of Islam (after Mecca, Medina and Rosali-. mA) – the tomb of Eyup El-Ansari, the second prophet Muhammad, the only one of the shrines that can be seen near a foreigner and a Gentile. This place traditionally devoted to the Ottoman sultans were girded with the sword of the founder of the Ottoman dynasty Osman. The sarcophagus of Eyup Sultan is decorated with exquisite ceramic patterns and surrounded by a lattice of pure silver. And at the very top of the mountain-cemetery – cafe Pierre Loti – a tiny old institution. In the XIX century, the French writer Julien VIO, who was printed under the pseudonym Pierre Loti, liked to sit here for hours Smoking a pipe. By the way, he is considered the inventor of such a genre of literature as the colonial novel. The shelter of the Sufis whirling dervish is one of the symbols of Turkey. In Istanbul, at the end of a brilliant Boulevard Istiklal Caddesi near Tunel square, at the beginning of the street Galp-grandfather is, hidden from prying eyes, shelter dervishes of the Mevlevi order – Mevlevihane. Here, on the first and third Saturday of each month, there are open ceremonies of worship of whirling dervishes – SEMA. By purchasing a ticket for only $ 20, everyone can join this exciting action. However, the number of seats is limited, so I advise you to stock up on tickets in advance. Meyhane “Meyhana”, which means “house of wine” – this is the place where fun and noisy, where a river of wine and raki (a local variety of vodka infused with ANS), but for some reason there are no fights. A drunken Turk is more inclined to stormy fun with choral performance of folk songs and round dances than to a drunken brawl. In “meyhana” don’t eat the main dishes, but the tables are full of meze — a variety of cold appetizers. Even here often plays live, mostly traditional music that adds energy and drive to the already warm atmosphere. The best meyhane there have Baola around Istiklal Boulevard. The stone song of Sinan Mimar Sinan can be called an Ottoman architectural genius. Such a number of beautiful and unique buildings erected by one person, there is perhaps no other city in the world. Haseki mosque, Mihrimah, Sehzade, Suleymaniye, Selimiye, Rustem Pasha – it’s only a tiny part of the huge architectural heritage of the architect. Sinan was not just an Ottoman architect, he was a man of science and unbridled creative potential, which gave him the opportunity to harmoniously combine in his creations Islamic architectural traditions and new building ideas. During the military campaigns of the Ottoman army Sinan eagerly studied the architectural experience of the West and East, which gave him the opportunity to create his own unique style. If you’ve watched old James bond movies, you probably remember the movie “From Russia with love”, the action of which unfolded mainly in Istanbul. Do you remember the scene of the massacre at the Gypsy camp? Now, there really is such a place. This is an old and poor Gypsy quarter of Sulu-Kul, which is located near the city wall of ancient Constantinople, between the gates of Topkapi and Edirnekapi. This colorful place lives by its strict laws, and even the police do not always dare to come here. Drugs, fights, prostitutes -a complete set, and do not doubt. Therefore, even in search of thrills suggest you think twice before coming here. Well, unless your name is bond, and the Gypsy Baron of this quarter is your best friend.